Before you buy: check the pack, not the bars
Buying privately or from another dealer? One check is the difference between a great cheap EV and an expensive mistake.
Buying a Leaf privately or from another dealer? Bring it to us first. We'll do a full mechanical check and a proper battery health report, so you know exactly what you're buying and what it's worth. This one check is the difference between a great cheap EV and an expensive mistake.
Bar count on its own isn't enough. We read the complete Enhanced Diagnostic Battery Report, state of health, then the individual cell-pair voltages, variances and cell resistance, because a weak cell group shows up in behaviour long before it shows up on the dash.
The mechanical side is where import history shows: seized rear brakes, tyre wear and alignment, suspension bushes and shocks, corrosion at the strut tops and underbody, and a 12V battery that throws warning lights. We also check what the car is missing rather than what is broken, English conversion, NZ charge cables, and a service history that may never have included reduction gear oil or coolant.
Frequently asked
What should I check before buying a used Nissan Leaf?
The pack, properly: state of health, cell-pair voltages and variance, not just the capacity bars. Then brakes, tyres, alignment, suspension, corrosion and the 12V battery.
Are the capacity bars enough to judge a Leaf battery?
No. The bars are coarse and a weak cell group shows up in behaviour long before it shows on the dash.
Can you inspect a Leaf I have not bought yet?
Yes. Most of the Leafs we look at came from somewhere else. Bring it, or the seller can drop it in.
Related
Book a pre-purchase inspection
Mechanical check and a printed battery report before you commit. Penrose, Auckland.
Booking request
We reply within the hour, Mon–Fri 7:30am–5pm.